No room in the Inn

The walk today was beautiful, climbing up out of San Sebastián, the views back to the city and sea were spectacular. I left before anything was open for breakfast so I was hungry by the time I reached Orio, the first option for food at around 11:00.

The remainder of the day was uphill, sometimes fairly steeply so, through beautiful areas along the Atlantic, mostly a rural wine making region.  I arrived in Zurautz, a costal holiday town and found the line for the Albergue had more people waiting than there were beds. Catching little snipets of conversation, I learned that just about everything was “completo”, “finis”. I suppose if willing to spend some money there were places to be had but I have myself firmly in the Pilgrim spirit so I decided to walk on another 6 kilometers to the next town. I do have a Spanish SIM card in my phone so I called ahead and reserved a bed in a private Albergue for 12 Euro. The municipal Albergue are anything from a donitavo (donation) to 5-10 Euro. They are first come, first served. The private ones do accept reservations but are otherwise similar. All vary somewhat in amenities but the basic premise is the same; one or two large rooms with cots, mats or bunks. There are usually a couple of shower rooms, and maybe a washer, wash basin and clothes line. Many of the private ones have wifi and some like the one I’m in tonight provide a simple breakfast for 2-3 Euro. Privacy and modesty are not consistent with life in the Albergues. They open around 4 and you must leave by 8 or 9.

I am glad now that there was no room in Zarautz although I had a moment of panic wondering what I would do. Getaria is a lovely little coastal town with a history of sailing, fishing and whaling. The early 1500’s saw many explorers travel off to the new world. An explorer from this town finished the first circumnavigation after Magellan was killed.

I’m sure the day will come when the exhaustion of the daily exertion will make me wonder of the folly of doing this but so far I am actually feeling good to dig deeply when it feels like I can’t take another step, or just try to be calmly be resourceful  when it looks like I’m lost or without a place to stay.

Despite my best efforts my feet do hurt. I hope they toughen up soon!