The Dolomites – put them on the list!!

                                                                            After two days enjoying the sea breezes off the Mediterranean, Chagall, Mattise, and a couple of strolls along Riviera promenades, it was time to put my hiking shoes back on and head to Cortina de Ampezzo in the breathtaking Italian Dolomites. 

“Breathtaking” is both figuratively and literally true in reference to these ruggedly impressive peaks. Hiking among the peaks, valleys, scree, boulder fields, World War I ruins, alpine meadows, and welcoming Refugios is an unforgettable experience.

I met up with my friend John Cogan in Cortina. It was so great to see John and spend time with my friend after so many solo days traveling. We had spontaneously made the decision last year to meet up in Cortina to hike. John was spending a few sabbatical months in Europe and the timing and interest in hiking made this work well for us both. I am so happy he hiked it with me. He is companionable and a seasoned traveler and fun to be around. It was a great experience.

Hiking the Dolomites is definitely challenging. The very steep ascents and descents are long and arduous but in between there are alpine meadows and pastures with cows, horses, goats, sheep and llamas grazing as well as marmots appearing and disappearing across the landscape. There are rivers, waterfalls and lovely alpine lakes. The Refugios seem to appear with perfect timing offering a rest, a meal, and a beer.

While each and every day had its shin-splinting, calf-cramping, Achilles-stretching, heart-pounding, lung-bursting treks up and down 20 degree and greater grades, our fifth and last day out was especially challenging and rewarding. We started out early knowing we had 7 hours ahead of us with two big climbs and one long, precipitous descent and less than two hours of the day through more rolling areas. We also knew weather was coming in after having enjoyed picture perfect deep blue skies and ideal hiking temperatures in the upper 60’s our entire time.

After climbing steeply out of the beautiful valley where Lavarella Refugio (our home the last night) is located we walked among huge boulder fields created by some form of cataclysmic natural event leaving sheer rock walls towering above massive boulder piles. We then descended, indeed even more steeply than we had climbed, through scree tracks and reinforced switchbacks to again reach the valley floor before starting right back up – this time to reach the highest Refugio in the Dolomites at about 8500 feet. I cannot begin to describe it. I am not a big fan of heights and narrow paths along steep mountain sides, but I wouldn’t trade the experience. I admit that I did not look down while I was walking -waiting instead for a wide vista point or brief leveling spot on a turn to look back over what had been accomplished and take pictures while catching my breath and slowing my heart rate. The last half of the day and steepest ascent was largely on scree and rocky paths and had the added interest of the ruins from World War I where the soldiers crossed these mountains, took up defense positions and struggled through the bitter cold of winter and often died in the treacherous avalanches that came with Spring. When you look at the caves and tunnels that provided both passage and shelter and imagine this environment in the bitterly cold winter months, it is hard to imagine anyone survived.

Just as we reached the last Refugio the precipitation began in the form of ice crystals and the wind picked up.  The quilted jackets had to come out of the pack as soon as the exertion ended. It was the only day we needed our warm hats.  Our descent was made easy by a cable gondola and, at that point, my legs thanked me for not making the last descent through the pitch black tunnels and sheer, steep path that is the alternative way to get down.

The Dolomites are now on the list of places to return. There are countless vistas still unseen and more beautiful and challenging paths to hike. We barely scratched the surface in 5 days. There are also more warm and comforting Refugios to visit, strudel to eat, and beer and hot chocolate to drink.

John headed off to Florence and I to Ljubljana Slovenia. Two thirds of my journey is now behind me. I wouldn’t trade a minute. It has been a most excellent adventure!

The beautiful Dolomites were definitely a highlight of this  journey.