Decisions

Since leaving Leon I have basically been meandering through the Camino Frances by bus. I last wrote as I completed my time in beautiful Leon and then on to Astorga and last night Villafranca del  

Bierza. The top four photos above are in Astorga. The omnipresent Gaudi designed and built a couple of homes here. This one is now a museum and the other is occupied. His style is so identifiable and very “out there” for the times. He used a lot of nature elements in his design and the roundness of angles and surfaces so different from the linear angularity and sharpness of other buildings of his time. I am sure Gaudi went where s client could afford his services so, while his influence is primarily seen in Barcelona, there are Gaudi structures others places in Spain.

Much of Astorgas Roman wall is still intact. The albergue where I stayed has been restored and modernized but is on the site of an original “hospital” ministering to the needs of midieval pilgrims making their way to Santiago. Over hundreds of years there have been a countless numbers of pilgrims who have made this journey. I like staying in the old albergues that are former convents, monasteries, or “hospitals” (obviously cwhere our current use of this word originated). Many of the “hospitallers” still feel this deep commitment to serve pilgrims. In Astorga, there are physical therapy students who come to the albergue each evening to minister to the sore and injured pilgrims.

Yesterday I arrived to Villafranca del Bierzo. Of course there were the cathedrals and monuments harkening to the long rich history and tradition. My albergue pictured above with the square tower was formerly a church and monastery. Part of it is now a hotel but one section remains reserved for pilgrims at 8 euro per night for a three bed room with bath. There is a communal kitchen and laundry. The last picture is the view at sunset from my room.

I had dinner at the small restaurant in the photo. It was recommended in trip advisor and did not disappoint. Often the nicer restaurants are very busy at the midday meal and reticent to offer a table to a single diner. I could tell the waiter was advocating for me with the chef who he had to check with before permitting me a seat. The previous day two restaurants had said they were full with obviously vacant tables. An occasional nice meal is good. They are relatively not much more expensive than the inexpensive three course meal available at most bars and restaurants (10 Euro including wine, bread, and coffee). These meals however are usually not fresh things like salads and involve potatoes in any number of ways.

So, now I have been wrestling with the decision about what to do next. I am not doing well with riding the bus past people walking the Camino. I see the tired and satisfied walkers come into the albergues after I am settled and showered and finished with my laundry. I feel bad to be taking a bed though I know many have to bus segments for various reasons.

What I have decided is to give it a try walking again. I am taking the bus today to Lugo Spain which will put me back on the Primativo, my original route plan. Lugo is beyond the mountain crossing part that is most difficult and puts me 103 km from Santiago. I will have 8 days starting the 12th(tomorrow) to make my way over that 100 km. While that seems like a reasonable number of miles per day, the accommodations, unfortunately,  don’t space out evenly. The first leg will be the longest but I am hopeful. I can go slowly. I have tried to identify the slightly more expensive (8 vs 5 euro) private albergues that take reservations and have emailed to try to secure them. Without the pressure of getting somewhere in time to get a bed, I think it will help. The Primativo has fewer albergues than the Frances but the sheer numbers of people walking and filling the towns at night somewhat diminishes the experience for me. I don’t think I would feel that way if I hadn’t had my wonderful experience of the Norte – the solitude, the peacefulness, the personal feel of it. That is there to be found on the Frances as well but I think just because it has become more of a business (small villages have become minor towns serving Pilgrims), it feels a little different.

I can still take a bus from Lugo to Sarria and try the last 100 from there on the Frances with more of a safety net but I will test my leg some more today and make the decision. One way or another there are 9 days left of my Camino and I will immerse myself in this truly special and singular life experience.