The Camino Frances

As I have moved on to the Camino Frances and into the Provinces of Burgos, Palencia and Leon, many changes are evident.

There are many more pilgrims and the evidence that this is the Way are much more ever- present.  There are many more pilgrim accommodations; much larger (and in some cases – but certainly not all –  less personal). There are shops catering entirely to the needs of pilgrims and a bit more “commercial”. I think part of it is that until I can walk between stops again, I am relagated to my lens being from the perspective of a town at least big enough to have a bus stop.

I had time yesterday to walk in Carrion de Los Cantos before my bus departed. It was Saturday and starting early the town was preparing for a traditional element of their fiesta – decorating the town’s main plaza with floral designs on the plaza stones. They work from a plan, draw the design on the stones and then use only flowers and natural elements; seeds, dirt, petals, nuts and flowers to bring it to life. It is reminiscent of our parades where the floats have to be all made from flowers.

Everyone joins in and has their task to do.

I also walked to the monastery (like many now a hotel) and had my much looked forward to morning trip to the bar for tea, a croissant, and the ever present fresh squeezed orange juice. I think I want one of the juice squeezers used here in most bars – the oranges are fed in at the top whole. They are halved and squeezed and the empty halves discarded in the blink of an eye. The results: delicious. Spain has the best oranges!

I arrived to Leon – another magnificent cathedral (this one rightfully heralded as having the most magnificent stained glass in Spain and perhaps in a cathedral anywhere in the world) in a much larger more urban city. I found the albergue with little difficulty and was soon seeing the sights. The monastery, the Parador here, is now a 5 star hotel. The religious of its day would be astounded by the splendor that has replaced its more humble beginnings and the monastic life.

Today I will go to Astorga – a smaller town with a very interesting history and culture.

I put about 7 miles on my Fitbit yesterday – the most since my injury. It was slow and spread out over the day but I feel good this morning!  The weight bearing is the issue – not much tolerance for longer distances without resting it and the added weight of the pack is immediately felt in the area of my tibia that is the source of the problem.

I am still hopeful that if I get to Sarria by the 13th  or 14th I can slowly make my way the last 100 km on foot doing shorter days slowly. We shall see.