I resumed my pilgrim travel yesterday with a beautiful sunny, 80 degree walk – about 18 miles- from my Airbnb to the albergue in Comillas. I fortunately felt strong and well rested (and fed) and made good time. The albergue there strictly limits its capacity at 20 and I was # 17 in the line of
backpacks. I think I arrived around 1:30 and it opened at 3. I tend to just walk straight through the day with maybe one stop for tea. I’m not the world’s fastest walker and I tend to take a few photos? but I usually just stop once for a cup of tea. As I’ve said, we tend to be creatures of habit as humans and I like to be completely ready to go when I go to sleep (usually sleeping in the clothes for the next day). Every day one of my two options for shirts and shorts gets washed and dried.
Now about today – 20 miles and it rained non stop. Someone suggested an umbrella to me-I am so thankful! It is fairly warm (around 70 on rainy days) but up until now drizzle or mist would have been how I characterized the precipitation. Today it flat out rained. I had gotten a plastic poncho in anticipation of the forecasted rain. It worked fairly well in combination with my umbrella until I decided to try to remove my windbreaker – no value as too warm and not waterproof – I tried to pull this contortionist maneuver off without taking my backpack or poncho off. I completely destroyed my poncho but they are plentiful here and a buck fifty. I’ve already replaced it as the forecast for tomorrow is the same.
The albergue here has no washer, no dryer and no blankets. It may be a challenging night!
The most wonderful thing about this little town – that has really no other option for sleeping – does have a most amazing thing…..a delicious Mexican restaurant. I am there now (they have wifi; the albergue does not) and eating a big bowl of the most delicious Mexican chicken soup I have ever tasted and drinking a Modelo! Can you believe it?? My $7 dinner.
Tomorrow night I reserved a room in a youth hostel in a town about 16 miles from here. It is in a converted train station and is the accomodation part of an adventure trip business. They have washers and dryers (and wifi) and by tomorrow night I can’t leave that to chance. It is curious how the mind begins to operate according to the norms and culture of your experience. This hostel charges $16 per night in high season (now) and after spending $5 most nights for a bed, it feels “extravagant”.
I didn’t have my camera or phone out much today given the weather. I’ll see what is on there and add if I see something. The blue sky pics are yesterday.
I know that there are parts of this that “should” be unpleasant – walking in a down pour, being wet, feet hurting, not being able to communicate at all effectively, showers and bunks shared with strangers – who quite often snore and don’t feel the need to shower but, honestly, I am having the most incredible time. Every aspect is just part and parcel to this amazing whole. The chance to be quiet, to take all the time in thc world, to make decisions realizing if they are “wrong” so what – it is both a very freeing experience and has this enormous aspect of faith and trust. My day consists of free thinking, contemplation, memories and dreams but always keeping an awareness of the present and the way-marks of the Camino. You turn when they say turn and proceed when they indicate doing so. When you don’t see one for awhile you trust that it means to stay the course. One seems to always appear when you are feeling uncertain or just need a little reassurance and peace of mind. I find myself saying “gracias” out loud at times when one appears just as I realize I haven’t seen one for awhile. I don’t question them – I don’t doubt. And, if you are uncertain in the least, the first Spanish man, woman or child will eagerly show you the “way” even walking along with you. I know words can’t do it justice and I know everyone’s experience and comfort zone is different. For me, it seems impossible it has been 2 weeks already. It is passing much too quickly.
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