Albergues

This picture on the left  the first glimpse of Laredo from the trail. The one on the right,the walk into Santander

As is the case on much of the Norte it seems, you get up each day in a beach town (on this day it was Santona, just out of Laredo, to begin the day with what the Spanish describe as a “sharp” climb – an apt descriptor!  This was the scene from the path (left) and the trail was steep, narrow, and sandy – hard to get and hold footing. Just as I was telling myself I felt a bit like a goat, these fellows popped up. It really was a trail made more for goats than humans.

The prize at the top was extraordinary!  Beautiful ocean views. I stayed that night in Guemes at this Albergue

but more about that later. The next day was another magnificent walk along the coast. Once completing climbing again up from the village of Guemes past the small beaches with the early morning surfers, the next 10 kilometers or so we’re on a foot path along the Atlantic Ocean about 40 feet above the cliffs down to the ocean below. Corn fields on the left and the roiling Atlantic on the right and complete silence other than the waves crashing and birds. (The pic above)

Saturday ended in Santander, a larger city on the north Spanish Coast.  It was the day of Santander’s annual festival and the city was packed with people celebrating. I had gotten an early start out of Guemes ( the value of not being 25 or 30 and drinking half the night) so got a place in the very centrally located Albergue in Santander. The city is on the ocean with beautiful beaches and a bustling promenade.

I spent the late afternoon and evening just out walking among the party-goers. It was lively, festive and beautiful. One issue on the Camino is that the Albergues close up at 10 PM and lights out at 10:30. Restaurants in Spain don’t even open until 8:30 or more likely 9 and dinner is a drawn out affair unlike stopping in the bar (either stand alone or often the outdoor eating part of what will become a restaurant later in the evening) where you can get tapas, pinxtos, or raciones – all varieties of small plates chosen from a selection lining the top of the bar.  I had read about a restaurant in Santandar I wanted to try.  It had a bar so that part was open so I asked when they would start serving dinner (it was only 7:45 – sign of an American!) the gentleman told me not until 9  PM and besides, they were fully booked for festival. I thanked him and he did the most amazing thing; he motioned me to follow him to the back of the restaurant where he set a place for me, gave me a menu and served me a delicious meal!  Can you believe it??

I titled this “Albergues” because my intention was to talk about them just a bit. I will make it quick.

Albergue de Peregrinos are typically the municipal accomodations for pilgrims traveling the Camino by foot (pie) or bicycle. They are dormitory style and have varying numbers of available beds depending on the season and the town. There are also private Albergues which may provide beds for other travelers but in the Albergues de Perigrinos you must have a Camino credential to be allowed to stay. They are usually 5-10 euro or free except for a donation. Some have washers, some a dryer (always a clothesline). There may be showers separate for men and women or not. Beds are usually bunks (2 or 3 high) or single cots (like beds in a barracks or dorm) with between 8-40 in a room. You get assigned or select a bed space in the order your backpacks are lined up outside the door as you arrive before they open at 3 or 4 in the afternoon. The room/beds are coed. It is first come, first served until full. Some provide overflow on the floor or in tents outside depending on if a city or rural area. A blanket may be available and so far always a pillow and disposable sheet. Some have breakfast and some (like the Monasterio De Zenarruza and the Albergue in Guemes where I stayed last night) also provide communal meals at lunch and/or dinner complete with wine. Again, there is no expected payment. This is how the community supports the pilgrims.

Tonight, night 12 for me, I am taking a day for r and r and am staying in a small (10 room) rural pension tonight and tomorrow night before I resume walking. It was 7 hours walking today (83 degrees) made just a bit longer to find this accomodation that is in a barrio a few kilometers off the Camino. I actually found it on Airbnb and reserved it yesterday. I had decided (and planned in my time) a few times to stay in a hotel or hostel. I think it is good to give the feet a break but I really wasn’t as eager as I thought I would be even after 12 nights though I think my feet will thank me. I must say, now that I am here, this beautiful old (1600’s) house is wonderful – my own room, a big bed, my own shower with shampoo and a hair dryer!!! It is absolutely quiet and the 2 foot stone walls keep it cool despite the day in the mid 80’s today.

Im going to pick a couple of pictures. I have no idea where they will insert in the text and if I can make them make sense.  I can’t seem to get that part of blogging figured out.