There Are Places I Remember

I resumed my pilgrim travel yesterday with a beautiful sunny, 80 degree walk – about 18 miles- from my Airbnb to the albergue in Comillas. I fortunately felt strong and well rested (and fed) and made good time. The albergue there strictly limits its capacity at 20 and I was # 17 in the line of

backpacks. I think I arrived around 1:30 and it opened at 3. I tend to just walk straight through the  day with maybe one stop for tea. I’m not the world’s fastest walker and I tend to take a few photos? but I usually just stop once for a cup of tea. As I’ve said, we tend to be creatures of habit as humans and I like to be completely ready to go when I go to sleep (usually sleeping in the clothes for the next day). Every day one of my two options for shirts and shorts gets washed and dried.

Now about today – 20 miles and it rained non stop. Someone suggested an umbrella to me-I am so thankful!  It is fairly warm (around  70 on rainy days) but up until now drizzle or mist would have been how I characterized the precipitation. Today it flat out rained. I had gotten a plastic poncho in anticipation of the forecasted rain. It worked fairly well in combination with my umbrella until I decided to try to remove my windbreaker – no value as too warm and not waterproof – I tried to pull this contortionist maneuver off without taking my backpack or poncho off. I completely destroyed my poncho but they are plentiful here and a buck fifty. I’ve already replaced it as the forecast for tomorrow is the same.

The albergue here has no washer, no dryer and no blankets. It may be a challenging night!

The most wonderful thing about this little town – that has really no other option for sleeping – does have a most amazing thing…..a delicious Mexican restaurant. I am there now (they have wifi; the albergue does not) and eating a big bowl of the most delicious Mexican chicken soup I have ever tasted and drinking a Modelo!  Can you believe it?? My $7 dinner.

Tomorrow night I reserved a room in a youth hostel in a town about 16 miles from here. It is in a converted train station and is the accomodation part of an adventure trip business. They have washers and dryers (and wifi) and by tomorrow night I can’t leave that to chance. It is curious how the mind begins to operate according to the norms and culture of your experience. This hostel charges $16 per night in high season (now) and after spending $5 most nights for a bed, it feels “extravagant”.

I didn’t have my camera or phone out much today given the weather. I’ll see what is on there and add if I see something. The blue sky pics are yesterday.

I know that there are parts of this that “should” be unpleasant – walking in a down pour, being wet, feet hurting, not being able to communicate at all effectively, showers and bunks shared with strangers – who quite often snore and don’t feel the need to shower but, honestly, I am having the most incredible time. Every aspect is just part and parcel to this amazing whole. The chance to be quiet, to take all the time in thc world, to make decisions realizing if they are “wrong” so what – it is both a very freeing experience and has this enormous aspect of faith and trust. My day consists of free thinking, contemplation, memories and dreams but always keeping an awareness of the present and the way-marks of the Camino. You turn when they say turn and proceed when they indicate doing so. When you don’t see one for awhile you trust that it means to stay the course. One seems to always appear when you are feeling uncertain or just need a little reassurance and peace of mind. I find myself saying “gracias” out loud at times when one appears just as I realize I haven’t seen one for awhile. I don’t question them – I don’t doubt. And, if you are uncertain in the least, the first Spanish man, woman or child will eagerly show you the “way” even walking along with you. I know words can’t do it justice and I know everyone’s experience and comfort zone is different. For me, it seems impossible it has been 2 weeks already. It is passing much too quickly.

So, for those of you who know me well, it is atypical for me to go this long without talking extensively about food. I do like food!  And, I must say, Spain has this food thing figured out in many respects but it takes a little getting used to

and I have had to spend some time learning my way around the gastronomical aspects of this adventure.

There are “bars” in Spain that open relatively early around 8 am and are open most of the day.  They serve coffee, tea, wine, beer etc and various small plates  For breakfast that is usually savory and/or sweet but they tend to like their croissants and cakes in the morning or the ubiquitous tortilla which is a large frittata type thing makes of eggs and potatoes and maybe another ingredients of which you are served a wedge with bread. The breakfast (an item and beverage) is about $2.50.

Other times of the day the bars serve small sandwiches etc that are pre-made and in cases or open on top of the bar along with other small items skewered with a toothpick.  You choose what you want and pay based on your toothpicks that remain at the end. These are called pinxtos (or tapas or raciones – small distinctions between them) but are each usually 1-1.50 euro. You can just about use euro and dollar interchangeably these days which makes it a great time to travel in Europe.

Restaurants serve lunch and dinner. Lunch is typically between 1-3 and dinner 8:30-11.  At both times of day most restaurants serve either ala carte or the three course meal of the day (or evening).  They include a choice of first course, second course, and dessert and each category has many options. They are one fixed price and usually cost between $10 and $14 depending on whether you are in a tourist area or not. Today in Santillana Del Mar, a beautifully restored midieval town with a large draw for tourists, I had lunch at the #1 restaurant on Trip Advisor. It was amazing! I had a three course lunch of salad, grilled sea bass with clams, and dessert, wine, and bread (wine and bread are included in the price) for $14.00.

Not every day on the Camino is a great food day. Some Albergues are off the beaten path or hours are too restrictive or the daily required mileage is such that a quick bar or grocery stop will have to suffice.  However when time and circumstances permit it can be quite a treat to enjoy a meal here. Table wine and tap beer is excellent, cheap and plentiful.  It is great to get wonderful tea with steamed milk for a euro.

Now, I’m going to post some food pictures that may end up who knows where because as you know “adding media” was something I failed to learn when I was viewing my blog lessons on line!

I need to go – my host in this wonderful little agri-pensione near Santillana del Mar where I am enjoying my day of R&R is preparing dinner for me this evening.  If this morning’s breakfast is any indication, I’m in for a treat.

Tomorrow I transform from tourist back to Pilgrim and am actually very much looking forward to resuming my Camino.  My feet are grateful for the rest, however.

This picture on the left  the first glimpse of Laredo from the trail. The one on the right,the walk into Santander

As is the case on much of the Norte it seems, you get up each day in a beach town (on this day it was Santona, just out of Laredo, to begin the day with what the Spanish describe as a “sharp” climb – an apt descriptor!  This was the scene from the path (left) and the trail was steep, narrow, and sandy – hard to get and hold footing. Just as I was telling myself I felt a bit like a goat, these fellows popped up. It really was a trail made more for goats than humans.

The prize at the top was extraordinary!  Beautiful ocean views. I stayed that night in Guemes at this Albergue

but more about that later. The next day was another magnificent walk along the coast. Once completing climbing again up from the village of Guemes past the small beaches with the early morning surfers, the next 10 kilometers or so we’re on a foot path along the Atlantic Ocean about 40 feet above the cliffs down to the ocean below. Corn fields on the left and the roiling Atlantic on the right and complete silence other than the waves crashing and birds. (The pic above)

Saturday ended in Santander, a larger city on the north Spanish Coast.  It was the day of Santander’s annual festival and the city was packed with people celebrating. I had gotten an early start out of Guemes ( the value of not being 25 or 30 and drinking half the night) so got a place in the very centrally located Albergue in Santander. The city is on the ocean with beautiful beaches and a bustling promenade.

I spent the late afternoon and evening just out walking among the party-goers. It was lively, festive and beautiful. One issue on the Camino is that the Albergues close up at 10 PM and lights out at 10:30. Restaurants in Spain don’t even open until 8:30 or more likely 9 and dinner is a drawn out affair unlike stopping in the bar (either stand alone or often the outdoor eating part of what will become a restaurant later in the evening) where you can get tapas, pinxtos, or raciones – all varieties of small plates chosen from a selection lining the top of the bar.  I had read about a restaurant in Santandar I wanted to try.  It had a bar so that part was open so I asked when they would start serving dinner (it was only 7:45 – sign of an American!) the gentleman told me not until 9  PM and besides, they were fully booked for festival. I thanked him and he did the most amazing thing; he motioned me to follow him to the back of the restaurant where he set a place for me, gave me a menu and served me a delicious meal!  Can you believe it??

I titled this “Albergues” because my intention was to talk about them just a bit. I will make it quick.

Albergue de Peregrinos are typically the municipal accomodations for pilgrims traveling the Camino by foot (pie) or bicycle. They are dormitory style and have varying numbers of available beds depending on the season and the town. There are also private Albergues which may provide beds for other travelers but in the Albergues de Perigrinos you must have a Camino credential to be allowed to stay. They are usually 5-10 euro or free except for a donation. Some have washers, some a dryer (always a clothesline). There may be showers separate for men and women or not. Beds are usually bunks (2 or 3 high) or single cots (like beds in a barracks or dorm) with between 8-40 in a room. You get assigned or select a bed space in the order your backpacks are lined up outside the door as you arrive before they open at 3 or 4 in the afternoon. The room/beds are coed. It is first come, first served until full. Some provide overflow on the floor or in tents outside depending on if a city or rural area. A blanket may be available and so far always a pillow and disposable sheet. Some have breakfast and some (like the Monasterio De Zenarruza and the Albergue in Guemes where I stayed last night) also provide communal meals at lunch and/or dinner complete with wine. Again, there is no expected payment. This is how the community supports the pilgrims.

Tonight, night 12 for me, I am taking a day for r and r and am staying in a small (10 room) rural pension tonight and tomorrow night before I resume walking. It was 7 hours walking today (83 degrees) made just a bit longer to find this accomodation that is in a barrio a few kilometers off the Camino. I actually found it on Airbnb and reserved it yesterday. I had decided (and planned in my time) a few times to stay in a hotel or hostel. I think it is good to give the feet a break but I really wasn’t as eager as I thought I would be even after 12 nights though I think my feet will thank me. I must say, now that I am here, this beautiful old (1600’s) house is wonderful – my own room, a big bed, my own shower with shampoo and a hair dryer!!! It is absolutely quiet and the 2 foot stone walls keep it cool despite the day in the mid 80’s today.

Im going to pick a couple of pictures. I have no idea where they will insert in the text and if I can make them make sense.  I can’t seem to get that part of blogging figured out.

Today dawned sunny and bright on the coast and I was happy to get started at first light for what I knew would be a long day.  The usual place to end from my departure point at Solana is Laredo but I had decided that it would be worth another 7 kilometers of walking to be in a quieter town for the night.

The path quickly became rural as it cut inland before later returning to the Atlantic Coast at Laredo.  The scenes of the day felt very familiar as the climate is not unlike the Northwest.  Forests are pine with lots of ferns and the annual rainfall amounts maintain a green landscape. It is steeper and rockier and the expanses of range land larger than is usual at home.  It is not uncommon to encounter sheep, horses, goats, or cows with bells around their neck to enable the farmer/rancher to find them. The family gardens are overflowing with vegetables and trees are laden with lemons, limes, apples and figs.  There are lots of grapes grown in the area and kiwi fruit.

I also found wild mountain blackberries just ripening.  These are the small blackberries I remember picking in the woods as a child; not the large Himalayan variety we see by the roadside at home.  I haven’t see wild mountain blackberries in years and it evoked a flood of childhood memories of my mother taking us picking with our little coffee cans fitted with string handles and getting nettle stings and thorn scratches as we managed enough for a few blackberry pies – well worth the effort. The real beauty in this trip though is that it brought back so many thoughts for me about my mom and I actually had the time, clarity, and lack of distraction to be able to stay with those thoughts and memories for as long as I wanted. This is something I totally had forgotten how to do and how rich and meaningful it can be.

Another moment today was seeing an old woman  cutting the long grass around her house with a scythe.  It turned out she was 80.  She asked if I was going to Santiago.  I replied I was and with my limited Spanish and the help of a Spanish speaking friend I was walking with when I saw her, I learned she was asking that I say a prayer for her in Santiago when I arrived at the Cathedral.  I agreed to do so and she returned to her work and I to my walk but it was really very special.  I have a great photo of her but I took it with my “real” camera so can’t add it to the post.

I was struck today that I have completed a week. Some of you will understand exactly what this feels like as I  liken it to reading a really exceptional book, maybe the best you have ever read only it isn’t someone else’s story or their experience of self discovery, it is my own.  And like the very best of books you suddenly want to force yourself to read more slowly even though you want so much to know what is yet to be revealed. You know you will be sad when it ends and the end will come too quickly.  I had that feeling today about my Camino  I want to slow my pace, savor the details, examine my thoughts, feel my emotions and take my time. The end will come more quickly than I will be ready for.

A last note – while Laredo is a stunning beach, it was as I imagined a bit of an assault to the senses emerging from my day of quiet walking.  I walked through town on the long beachside promenade but was happy to tuck into my Albuergue for the night – an Albuergue with wifi!!

  Today’s walk was beautiful and quite long.

I find that I enjoy staying in th Albergues in the smaller villages better than the bigger towns. I think the younger people have an affinity for the towns (more nightlife etc) whereas the pace and rhythm in the small towns is more pleasant to me after 8-10 hours of walking.

Thankfully the way markers are frequent and obvious and predictable as the days go by. I don’t tend to wonder if I am lost as often. Much of the day today (aside from one less than glorious stretch along the highway) was on paths along the Atlantic coast or through the forests. There were also somewhat fewer and less dramatic elevation gains and steep descents which tend to be harder on the feet and legs.

.It is interesting to have your awareness of your body be so apparent. I will occasionally realize that nothing hurts! That’s a happy moment. It doesn’t always last but for that time it is good. I do feel myself getting stronger especially relative to carrying my back pack. I hardly have an awareness of it anymore until the end of the day approaches.
I will be glad when my feet toughen a bit.
The other thing I am enjoying is learning about this part of Spain. So many of the early explorers came from here. The lore (and lure) of sea is apparent everywhere. The very old buildings – especially the churches- are beautiful. The one today in Castro-Urdiales was magnificent and built in the early part of the 13th century.
Now, about the title of this post: I followed a Camino route today (an official variant) that allowed more time along the sea but when I had gone a good bit of the way there was a sign in Spanish that seemed to indicate that proceeding through a long abandoned mining tunnel was not permitted but my book had mentioned that I would be passing through just such a tunnel. I debated for a couple of seconds during which I thought about backtracking (uh, no way) and I went around the barrier, put on my headlamp, and proceeded. I emerged to the most beautiful seascape and narrow path up from there that deposited me on a grassy track across a field into the town where I am staying tonight. It was magical and I wondered for a moment if I was really walking the Camino or if this was just a dream and I would awaken in Portland. Apparently not.
Tonight’s accomodations are challenging for an old girl! I’m in the middle bed of a three story bunk! Mattress is about 3 inched. I’m having a glass of wine hoping exhaustion will see me through.
I know, it probably sounds awful but it is wonderful – every aspect of it! Like a dream, really.

Let me first say, I have not figured out how to insert the photos so they make sense with the narrative so forgive and just guess where the picture fits in the story!

Yes, I live!  I have been without wifi since July 17 – 4 days. I must admit I had to do a bit of research to determine how long it has been. I have totally lost track of the date and day but the time of day remain relevant because I try to calculate how long I will be walking. Most days that is from 6 or 7 am until 2:30-5 in the afternoon. I must say this is far more rigorous than I had anticipated. Maybe I said that before but it is very much the case.  The paths up and down from the coastal towns to the Camino paths are steep and often rocky. I actually think I prefer the ups to the downs in terms of wear and tear on the body. I follow the way markers and arrows. I have come to trust that just as I think I may be off the Way, a yellow arrow appears to reassure.

Despite my best efforts and preparation I have blisters!  An important part of my developing

Camino ritual involve the morning and evening care of my feet. All in all, I’m doing great!

The last three nights I have stayed at the municipal Albergues Pelligrinos (the pilgrim hostels)  they are free except for a donation, usually 5 Euros ($5).  They have showers, washers and an occasional dryer, and between 20 and 40 (although some are apparently larger) beds – cots or bunks. I am attaching a typical picture taken from my bunk – 8 young men, a young woman and me occupying a room for 10. Mostly the travelers are in their 20’s or 30’s, from some part of Europe but many Spaniards, spending their vacation doing a section of the Camino.  It surprises them to learn I am from the U.S.  and intend to complete the Camino.

The night before last I stayed in the Albergue in Markina  it was Sunday and there was a festival.  Alfredo, a man from Murcia convinced the hospitaller (who presides over the Albergues), to extend the 10 pm curfew so we could go the festival. A group of us went out for “cider” and pinxtos (like tapas but eaten standing at a table outside the bar).  So much fun.

It is interesting how quickly the human creature establishes a routine even when in such foreign surroundings.  I think about all of you often. Sooz, I think I now know where your beloved goats and burros go when they leave this world in Oregon. I have seen them in the woods in Spain high on forested trail happily chewing the vegetation or fat and happy in a lush field. This must be heaven for such creatures.

I have not thought about work but have about all of my friends and co-workers frequently.  I know that as arduous as the days can be (and I am not exaggerating, they are tough – Jan, this would be right up your alley!) it is such an incredible experience; the things I have seen, people I have met, and the time to both think and learn about how I respond to the challenges I have faced has been incredible.  There is nowhere to turn except to yourself when faced with something hard or even scary.

The process of simply moving forward is at times a remarkable thing.

Enough for now  I will select a couple of photos to share from the last few days

The walk today was beautiful, climbing up out of San Sebastián, the views back to the city and sea were spectacular. I left before anything was open for breakfast so I was hungry by the time I reached Orio, the first option for food at around 11:00.

The remainder of the day was uphill, sometimes fairly steeply so, through beautiful areas along the Atlantic, mostly a rural wine making region.  I arrived in Zurautz, a costal holiday town and found the line for the Albergue had more people waiting than there were beds. Catching little snipets of conversation, I learned that just about everything was “completo”, “finis”. I suppose if willing to spend some money there were places to be had but I have myself firmly in the Pilgrim spirit so I decided to walk on another 6 kilometers to the next town. I do have a Spanish SIM card in my phone so I called ahead and reserved a bed in a private Albergue for 12 Euro. The municipal Albergue are anything from a donitavo (donation) to 5-10 Euro. They are first come, first served. The private ones do accept reservations but are otherwise similar. All vary somewhat in amenities but the basic premise is the same; one or two large rooms with cots, mats or bunks. There are usually a couple of shower rooms, and maybe a washer, wash basin and clothes line. Many of the private ones have wifi and some like the one I’m in tonight provide a simple breakfast for 2-3 Euro. Privacy and modesty are not consistent with life in the Albergues. They open around 4 and you must leave by 8 or 9.

I am glad now that there was no room in Zarautz although I had a moment of panic wondering what I would do. Getaria is a lovely little coastal town with a history of sailing, fishing and whaling. The early 1500’s saw many explorers travel off to the new world. An explorer from this town finished the first circumnavigation after Magellan was killed.

I’m sure the day will come when the exhaustion of the daily exertion will make me wonder of the folly of doing this but so far I am actually feeling good to dig deeply when it feels like I can’t take another step, or just try to be calmly be resourceful  when it looks like I’m lost or without a place to stay.

Despite my best efforts my feet do hurt. I hope they toughen up soon!

I’m a bit hungry, tired, and sore in that order but I finished my first day on the Camino.  It far surpassed my expectations! Last night I found my way to the point where the Camino left Irun. I was glad this morning I had done so. I started early just as the sun was beginning to come up. I’m finding that navigating using the way markers is far more difficult in a town than on the paths.

I elected to do the “alpinist” route option  a few kilometers outside of Irun. It was billed as significantly steeper and more challenging but also more beautiful. It entailed climbing straight up (and I mean, the Spanish skipped ever learning about switchbacks) to the ridgeline of the mountains between Irun and San Sebastián. I was completely alone. It was an amazing experience. I will add a couple photos.

Got into San Sebastián fairly early in the afternoon and found my hostel.

The people along the way are so warm, kind and helpful. Sometimes it is hard to find the path and if you ask they will walk with you to the next way mark if they are afraid you won’t understand. So many great experiences make the shoulders ache a little less.

Well, I guess it is official now. I have my credential and begin walking tomorrow.  Every step along the way seems quite momentous at this point. Finding the first Albergues in Irun to get my credential was the first step. I think here on the Northern route Americans are a bit of an oddity. Of the 20 or so queued up to either get a bed for the night or get the credential, I was the only one with English as a first language. I understood none of the conversation around me and no one was particularly interested in whether I ever figured it all out. I did though and have the credential to prove it.

The place I am staying is right on the Camino route out of town. I plan to be up early before it gets too hot and start tomorrow’s first day – 27 kilometers and reportedly the most physically rigorous of all.

I am admittedly nervous. All my fellow pilgrims look years younger and travel tested. I look forward to the morning, however, as I know I will become stronger and more comfortable with the process each day- at least, that is the plan.

I say “for now” because this is definitely a place I wish to return. I barely scratched the surface of this beautiful city. What I know is that it is rich with history, tradition, wonderful food, beautiful works of art, and the warm and proud people of Catalan.
I sent my “Barcelona clothes” home today (I forgot how much time a stop in the post office can take even in a cosmopolitan city like this. Stand in line, get a box and a label, pay for those. Take a number and wait in line to post it. There were three tellers and 23 ahead of me 😊.
I have time for just a couple more things on my list before my train heads for Irun and the start of my Camino on the 16th. I am going to the Picasso museum a convenient two doors up the street from my Airbnb apartment and then 9 PM dinner at what many rank as the #1 restaurant in Barcelona. I’ve had my reservation for three months!

Today was Gaudi day! Unbelievable. The Sagrada Familia is the amazing and far from finished Gaudi masterpiece. It is now officially a Basilica after the visit of the Pope and consecration of the church 5 years ago. It is like nothing I’ve ever seen.