There Are Places I Remember

Tomorrow morning I leave for home from Paris. I can hardly believe the time has come.  Time is such a strangely experienced phenomenon in so many ways. While on the one hand it seems like so very long ago that I took my first tentative steps on the Camino del Norte, it also seems that the time has rushed by so quickly and already the three months have passed.

It has been quite some time since I have posted. Here is the best explanation I have for this.  Since I last posted I have been traveling with friends. This has had its benefits certainly. I have had others to share the beautiful things with; someone tasting what I am tasting, seeing what I am seeing, willing to talk about the experiences with me, sharing and supporting.

What is clearly different, at least for me, is that traveling with others seems to naturally diminish the opportunity for introspection; the chance to see what life will offer  when I am completely vulnerable and, by necessity, I find I am more open to meeting the world on its term when I am by myself.

There is also a different sort of accountability. Good or bad, one must make each and every decision and be responsible for the outcome of those choices. My understanding of independence and dependence have completely changed through this experience. I have, by necessity, depended on the goodness and humanity of others and it has been rewarding beyond measure. My previous pejorative view of being “dependent” has been forever altered.

I have learned that I am more brave alone……this is hard to explain. Things I would be reluctant to do and would verbalized my fears about to a companion (or maybe even choose to forego once giving voice to the fear), I respond to differently. I find I dismiss my fear, form my resolve, and do whatever it is when I am alone. I don’t even entertain the sense of reluctance or fear in the same way I do when I am with someone else. I can’t explain this.

The last weeks I have traveled through Croatia and sailed with my friends, and explored Turkey with Chris and these have been wonderful times, don’t misunderstand. But, it is different and I found that it did not create the same sense of wanting to deeply think about my life, to examine my thoughts and reactions, to let my time and thoughts take their own unbridled paths.  I didn’t feel I had anything I really wanted to share on these pages that wouldn’t be more a recitation of my travels than the sharing of my personal journey; my “Camino”.

Over the next few weeks I will shared some of the travel experiences while they are still fresh in my mind and share some of the photos that best chronicle the experiences because I want to be able to look back on them in the weeks, months and years ahead.  But, I acknowledge that this will not be the same experience of self-discovery of my first two months, but rather a reflection on the beauty, majesty, rich history, and wonderous sights that I have had both the privilege to sample and the joy of sharing them with people I care for very much.

There is a huge undiscovered world “out there” but an equally or maybe even larger undiscovered world “in there” if we create the time, opportunity, and openness to visit and, more importantly, linger there. My hope is that I have learned something about how to “be in the world” to make this possible wherever I am; that I will take “my time” and be less busy; that I will wander; that I will be brave; that I will find my companion ability with myself; that I will let humanity in and trust it’s inherent goodness.

I feel so very fortunate to have had this time. I am happy and sad as it comes to an end.

  I really didn’t know what to expect as I traveled to Slovenia’s capital city, Ljubljana.  As I thought about Eastern Europe, I imagined a fairly somber place that would carry with it a certain heaviness reflecting the conflicts and oppression so frequently a part of the history.

What I found in Ljubljana was such a cheerful, optimistic city with friendly, out-going people still, as a country, relishing  independence and relatively recent status as a free country.  I arrived on a Friday in the late afternoon.  The Central square’s outdoor cafés were filled with people enjoying time with family and friends over coffee.  Just off the square, people wandered through the many vendor stalls selling delicious foods during what they call Friday night “open kitchen” in Ljubljana. It was such a festive atmosphere that I assumed it was a holiday or special occasion but discovered it is just business as usual on a sunny Friday afternoon/evening in Ljubljana.

On Saturday, I walked through the outdoor market before taking the free walking tour where I learned so much about the history and culture of these proud people who have endured so much as they have been pawns in the various struggles, wars, and occupations that have gone on since Roman times and before in the region. Slovenia has existed only as a group of people sharing a common language but never an independent national entity until they became independent in 1991. The day after independence was chosen by referendum by >85% of its population, Slovenia was invaded by Yugoslavia and the 10 day war ensued. At its conclusion, Slovenia remained an independent nation.

Today Slovenia is enjoying a resurgence of tourism with its beautiful capital and lovely mountain regions. To me, it sharply contrasted to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia and next stop on my trip with its tall, post war buildings, stern  industrial ambience and citizens who seemed to go about their daily lives with little joy or warmth.  This may be an unfair commentary but it was my experience of Zagreb though I have found the coastal and central parts of Croatia quite beautiful and far more welcoming. I will describe them in more detail as I complete my travels in the area.

It is so wonderful to be traveling with friends now!  I met up with my friends Chris and MJ and Tony and Suzie in Zagreb.  We have a rented car and are driving to Split where we will join up with a larger group of friends to sail.

                                                                            After two days enjoying the sea breezes off the Mediterranean, Chagall, Mattise, and a couple of strolls along Riviera promenades, it was time to put my hiking shoes back on and head to Cortina de Ampezzo in the breathtaking Italian Dolomites. 

“Breathtaking” is both figuratively and literally true in reference to these ruggedly impressive peaks. Hiking among the peaks, valleys, scree, boulder fields, World War I ruins, alpine meadows, and welcoming Refugios is an unforgettable experience.

I met up with my friend John Cogan in Cortina. It was so great to see John and spend time with my friend after so many solo days traveling. We had spontaneously made the decision last year to meet up in Cortina to hike. John was spending a few sabbatical months in Europe and the timing and interest in hiking made this work well for us both. I am so happy he hiked it with me. He is companionable and a seasoned traveler and fun to be around. It was a great experience.

Hiking the Dolomites is definitely challenging. The very steep ascents and descents are long and arduous but in between there are alpine meadows and pastures with cows, horses, goats, sheep and llamas grazing as well as marmots appearing and disappearing across the landscape. There are rivers, waterfalls and lovely alpine lakes. The Refugios seem to appear with perfect timing offering a rest, a meal, and a beer.

While each and every day had its shin-splinting, calf-cramping, Achilles-stretching, heart-pounding, lung-bursting treks up and down 20 degree and greater grades, our fifth and last day out was especially challenging and rewarding. We started out early knowing we had 7 hours ahead of us with two big climbs and one long, precipitous descent and less than two hours of the day through more rolling areas. We also knew weather was coming in after having enjoyed picture perfect deep blue skies and ideal hiking temperatures in the upper 60’s our entire time.

After climbing steeply out of the beautiful valley where Lavarella Refugio (our home the last night) is located we walked among huge boulder fields created by some form of cataclysmic natural event leaving sheer rock walls towering above massive boulder piles. We then descended, indeed even more steeply than we had climbed, through scree tracks and reinforced switchbacks to again reach the valley floor before starting right back up – this time to reach the highest Refugio in the Dolomites at about 8500 feet. I cannot begin to describe it. I am not a big fan of heights and narrow paths along steep mountain sides, but I wouldn’t trade the experience. I admit that I did not look down while I was walking -waiting instead for a wide vista point or brief leveling spot on a turn to look back over what had been accomplished and take pictures while catching my breath and slowing my heart rate. The last half of the day and steepest ascent was largely on scree and rocky paths and had the added interest of the ruins from World War I where the soldiers crossed these mountains, took up defense positions and struggled through the bitter cold of winter and often died in the treacherous avalanches that came with Spring. When you look at the caves and tunnels that provided both passage and shelter and imagine this environment in the bitterly cold winter months, it is hard to imagine anyone survived.

Just as we reached the last Refugio the precipitation began in the form of ice crystals and the wind picked up.  The quilted jackets had to come out of the pack as soon as the exertion ended. It was the only day we needed our warm hats.  Our descent was made easy by a cable gondola and, at that point, my legs thanked me for not making the last descent through the pitch black tunnels and sheer, steep path that is the alternative way to get down.

The Dolomites are now on the list of places to return. There are countless vistas still unseen and more beautiful and challenging paths to hike. We barely scratched the surface in 5 days. There are also more warm and comforting Refugios to visit, strudel to eat, and beer and hot chocolate to drink.

John headed off to Florence and I to Ljubljana Slovenia. Two thirds of my journey is now behind me. I wouldn’t trade a minute. It has been a most excellent adventure!

The beautiful Dolomites were definitely a highlight of this  journey.

The beautiful images and impressions of the Middle Ages become simply a backdrop when you focus your attention on the smells, tastes, and ambience associated with drinking the wonderful wines of the Provence. I spent a great day visiting the chateaus of the Luberon valley with my knowledgeable and entertaining tour guide, Francois. It was a really nice small (7) group of us, five from the US and two Aussies. We visited four vineyards and had lunch in the village of Loumarin. We also visited Menerbes and Cuceron, postcard perfect Provence villages. Driving through the area the commentary (besides all things wine) is a who’s who of the rich and famous who can live here in quiet and relative obscurity in the bucolic splendor of the vineyards and olive groves. Actors, writers, fashion designers, artists and the like visit the same market days as everyone else with rarely a second thought. Our driver did say though that when they own and live in the chateaus on working vineyards (like Johnny Depp and Jolie and Pitt), the tasting rooms are not open to tourists when they are present.

I’m back now to spend my last two days in Avignon. My airbnb is so comfortable and pleasant that is nice to just stay put here and have the highlight of the day be the busy Avignon market – a site unto itself and dinner in one of the Michelin worthy restaurants nearby. I’m also doing the mundane and necessary things – banking, laundry, mailing a parcel home, a hair cut and pedicure (though I pity the poor pedicure person who has to take on my Camino weary feet!)

So will finish up here and have a brief stop on the Riviera and head to meet my friend John in the Dolomites. It almost doesn’t seem real!

The beautiful towns of Provence are so wonderfully photogenic. I wish I could do them justice!  It is an area so rich in history with so many influences dating back to midievel times. The Roman ruins rival those in Italy. Couple that with the influence of art and every corner seems to reveal a masterpiece of one kind or another.

I am so pleased with the decision to settle on one home base for a week here. I would hate to think of wasting the time involved in relocating myself and baggage every few days. I chose Avignon because of its central location and excellent connections by bus and/or train to so many of the town’s and villages I hoped to see.

My arrival day was spent seeing the obvious important Avignon sights. My airbnb is perfect in every way; location, comfort, and the most amazing host, Edith!

Saturday was spent in Arles with is enormous, interesting, and deliciously diverse Saturday market. It must be 2 miles long!  I selected my lunch items from the vendors and ate in the shadow of the ruins of the Roman arena. Fresh figs, delicious charcuterie and fromage, and still warm baguette – it doesn’t get much better.

There is much to see and do in Arles.  In the afternoon I followed in the footsteps of Van Gogh, seeing Arles through his eyes and the very places that served as inspirations for his painting. There are also the Roman ruins, a lovely cathedral and more museums than it is possible to see in a day.

The next day extended my Van Gogh exploration in St. Remy. There is a Van Gogh path there that has outdoor easels with reproductions of his paintings that include texts from letters he wrote to friends and family during his time in the mental hospital there after he lopped off his ear. It was a prolific time for him as his depression lifted. He wrote eloquently about the time. The path leads to the mental hospital, still in active operation, where you can visit his room, the room with the tubs used in his treatment, and the gardens where he spent his days painting. They are, of course, separated from where patients currently reside but it was most fascinating and quite moving to read his words and imagine his life at that time. Earlier that morning I had visited Le Beaux, a beautifully restored midievel town below a castle and fortification that have been only minimally restored but are well preserved making it interesting to see and imagine life at that time. As with many of the Unesco World Heritage sites (and other monuments in Europe), the excellent audio guides provide vivid descriptions that bring the sites to life.

Today I went to the Pont du Gard, part of the largest Roman aqueduct system in the world. Most of it is in ruin but the tallest and most impressive large section has been carefully restored. I then spent the afternoon in the small midievel town of Uzes, just roaming the winding, narrowed cobbled streets.

Everyday seems to bring something new and incredibly beautiful to my senses. I could go on and on about the food and wine – just unbelievable. I’m trying to limit myself to one very nice meal each day – usually in the early afternoon. I get breakfast in my airbnb (a typical French breakfast) and tonight Edith invited me to have dinner with her, her son and two friends. It was a totally unexpected and lovely invitation. We sat out on the terrace for dinner and I practiced my French and they practiced their English and we were able to have a reasonably broad and lively conversation. Edith’s friend Paul gives me some good natured jabs about my pretty bad French and doesn’t let me get away with much English – and he has taught me quite a bit of French!

I’m becoming a fairly facile user of public transportation. I actually can get on the bus or train without being unreasonably concerned I am going in the wrong direction. I can use the schedules to put together a pretty full and interesting day trip. I enjoy planning each new day.

Tomorrow is my day with Francios – my wine tour guide to the Luberon hills and valleys and the lovely vineyards of the region. It’s a full day affair and I’m looking forward to it. There are a few rain showers expected – the first break in the 90 degree, sunny weather since I arrived – and it is only anticipated to last a day.

I have had a chance to talk with home a few times. I miss my children, of course, and my friends and family. The time seems to be going by so quickly and the start of the Camino seems very long ago. Time is funny that way.

I am truly enjoying this experience on a deeper and more meaningful level than I ever imagined. The world is so full of rich opportunities to see both the creation of beauty and its destruction over time both at the hands of man and nature. It’s humbling to realize the speck of time and space each of us occupies in this vast world and expanse of time. Whole civilizations that have come and gone and built over the top of the one before. “Modern” man keeps finding and restoring the past only to become the past recovered and restored by those who follow. We really are so small – our significance is only for this moment in time which in no way diminishes it in the present, however, there is another perspective of such immensity to consider that reminds us of our mortality and relative insignificance. I’ve greatly appreciated the time to explore these thoughts and to consider the world and my life in ways I haven’t before – at least certainly not to the degree I have been able to over the last many weeks. It has been a gift.

When  I was in Guatemala in January I met a French woman. We talked about my planned trip to Spain and she invited me to come to her home in Toulouse when I finished the Camino. Her name is Nadine.

Nadine met my train in Perpignan France just east of the Pyrennes and near the sea. We stayed in that area at a flat she had been renting on the beach the prior week and then visited her sister in the lovely Mediterranean village of Collioure. It’s a former fishing village with winding cobble stone alleyways and picturesque seascapes. Nadine’s sister, Claudie, owns a gallery in Collioure selling the beautiful contemporary oil paintings by her daughter Vali.  Nadine had a group of friends from the U.S. visiting nearby who joined us there for lunch.  One of the nicest parts of traveling is meeting new friends.  It was a lovely day.

We then returned to Nadine’s home in Toulouse where I spent a few days exploring that lovely French city with its canals, churches and city squares lined with cafes. It’s a vibrant city. I enjoyed my time there very much.

I also took a day trip to  Carrcassonne with its midievel walled city and castle; beautiful and interesting! The oldest history of Carcassonne dates back to 3500 BC but it’s more “modern” history dates to Roman occupation in the first century becoming French in 1067.   The original fortress dates back to this very early time and went through various occupations and renovations.  It was restored in the 1800’s; a massive undertaking! It is so fascinating to learn the history and see the transformations that take place in these old palaces, castles, churches and cities as they persevere over hundreds of years, wars, sieges, fires, and the renovations undertaken by the victors. The early influences of North Africa and the Muslim period, the Crusades, and later Protestant and Catholic dominance are apparent as well as the styles over time; beginning as early as pre-Christian and Roman times and moving through the Neolithic, Gothic, Neo-Gothic, and Renaissance periods.  Many of these monuments have parts remaining that span 10 centuries or more. Much also has been destroyed and only present in the narratives of the past.

Nadine was a wonderful hostess and tour guide! I am so appreciate of the time she spent with me and her willingness to share her warm and comfortable home with me.

I’m now in Avignon arriving yesterday  I have a week here with Avignon as home base to explore Provence. I’m very much looking forward to these days!  It looks like toward the end of my stay here I will see rain again for the first time in awhile but for now its forecast to be 90 and I’m spending the day in Arles seeing the world through Van Gogh’s eyes.

The large covered market  in Santiago is about a 10 minute walk from the Airbnb where I am staying. There is no better way to begin the day than walking leisurely through the vendor’s stalls watching restaurant owners and housewives alike shopping for the fresh seafood and fruits and vegetables that will be served later in the day to customers and families.

I love the big open markets where individuals bring the fruits of their labors to be proudly displayed and seem so delighted when you admire the beauty of the displays and comment on the wonderful sights and smells of freshly harvested or prepared items. The cheese and meat sellers are eager to offer samples. In the middle of the market here in Santiago there is a cafe that will prepare to order whatever you buy and serve it to you for lunch!

The last three pictures were taken on my walk to the market this morning. To get there I go through a green space that is a collection of community gardens sitting at the base of an old monastery that now houses pilgrims as they arrive to Santiago. As I’m walking the spires of the cathedral can be seen against the morning sky. There is so much of the old that is preserved here. It evokes such a strong sense of what those midievil times must have been like.

I visited the cathedral one last time today. I sat again for the Pilgrims mass and was rewarded today with the swinging of the massive incense burner suspended over the heads of the pilgrims. It is lit and then set to swaying on massive ropes from one side of the cathedral to the other by clergy. The story is that it in days gone by it helped override the smell of the pilgrims as they arrived from their long journeys into Santiago. Actually, it’s probably a tradition not totally without utility for the modern day pilgrim as well!

I will be up before dawn tomorrow to slip once again into the now familiar and comfortable weight of my backpack and walk to the bus station and on to the airport for my flight to Barcelona and then my train trip to France. It is difficult to leave Spain but I am committed to return and walk the pilgrim path again.

I took the bus this morning to Finisterre and Muxia. I had hoped to walk but I don’t have enough time to spend 3-5 more days walking. Next time I will want to plan to finish walking at “the end of the world”.

In the days of the Spanish voyages of discovery it was believed that Finesterre was the west most point in Europe and therefore the end of the known world. It is, of course neither the west most point in Europe or the end of the world,but it doesn’t stop it from being referred to in that way.

It is s beautiful drive there that takes you past s well preserved medieval bridge over the River Timbres and past the highest waterfall in Spain at 40 meters.

The weather today was spectacular with warm sunshine and a nice breeze on the shore. The coast line is in part rugged and marked with big boulders and cliff sides, interspersed with long crescent beaches with white sand and blue water reminiscent of the Caribbean Sea.

I had lunch in Finisterre where there are more seafood choices than you can imagine – the most expensive of which are barnacles because barnacle collection is extremely dangerous and has cost many their lives.  Besides barnacles there are many varieties of clams and squid, mussels, scallops, cockles, prawns, shrimp, oysters, razor clam, clams in long, thin, tube shaped shells, crab, lobster, and many, many fishes. You can see the people in the small fishing villages out chest deep in the water collecting them to supply Spain and many other parts of the world. Many species are now “farmed” and one platform can sustain a family financially.

Finisterre is for many the end of the Camino though some walk on to Muxia. The Camino to Finisterre is the only official Camino that begins rather than ends in Santiago de Compostelo. The marker at the lighthouse on the cape at Finesterra has the 0 KM designation.

I have just two more days in Spain. I will spend them here in Santiago. I want to go back to the cathedral for one more pilgrims mass. I am hopeful they will swing the large incense burner from the ceiling tomorrow – I understand the best hope to see it is on Fridays. Otherwise, just walking the narrow cobbled streets, getting “lost”, and watching the vast array of people streaming in and out of Santiago and continuing to integrate my own experience seems like a worthwhile ways to spend these last days.

Today I arrived in Santiago!  After several overcast days today was bright, sunny, warm and offered another one of the Spanish deep blue skies that almost don’t look real.

My walk into Santiago was about 15 miles. I started out in the dark with the path illuminated by my head lamp. I had my own little following of fellow pilgrims who either had no headlamp, no batteries, or just decided to follow one light in the darkness. It was peaceful and silent with our little pack spreading out when dawn came.

Most of the path was protected from the sights and sounds of the approaching city as we walked on a dirt track through eucalyptus forest – not indigenous of course but introduced some time ago through many areas of northern Spain. At one point we crossed very near the approach runway for the airport here. The big jets just coming in to land are noticeable. The chain link fence that separates the Way from airport land has been adorned over the years with crosses made of sticks placed there by pilgrims. At this point too you begin to see where people have left behind momentos from their Camino – tee shirts, walking sticks, rain ponchos and hiking boots.

I got to the cathedral at 11:30. My hope was to be there for the pilgrims mass celebrated daily at noon and in the evening. There is an English mass at 10:30 each morning as well. I will attend the English one before I leave Santiago. The noon pilgrims mass is in Spanish and very beautiful.

My next stop was the Pilgrims office where a long line forms to get the official certificate or Compostela for completing the walk. To get the Compostela you must walk the last 100km or bike the last 200 km and must have at least two sello per day stamped into your pilgrim credential that you guard like your passport when you are walking.

There are 7 clerks validating credentials and the wait is still quite long but so worth it!  I’m not sure what I should make of the fact that my clerk pointed out that I was his oldest pilgrim so far on the day and had walked the Norte! He seemed to be pleased about that. I’m not so sure it warranted comment ☺️

I really don’t think I can put the feelings of this day into words. It was an emotional, quietly moving experience. It has to do with so many that have gone before (for hundreds of years) and how many in that moment are having their own special experience along side you, and knowing how many more are yet to follow. The cathedral fills every day with pilgrims arriving from Camino starting points in every corner of Spain as well as France and Portugal and from homes all over the world.  They represent every nationality, age, background, fitness level, race and ethnicity you can imagine.  They enter Santiago running, walking, limping, cycling, in wheelchairs and baby strollers. They shout with joy, sing, laugh, weep, and are silent.

For me it felt peaceful really. I felt physically very good; I felt strong; and my steps were light and easy. I had no pain at all. I felt happy to have reached Santiago and admittedly sad that my Camino was ending ….. for now. I felt grateful. I felt blessed; fortunate; whole.

I felt like I would be happy to begin again tomorrow.

I really loved this time; this opportunity to be present without distraction; to be unencumbered by responsibilities and expectations; to reacquaint myself with me – what interests me when I’m free to explore; what catches my attention; what does my eye and the camera lens find; what flavors excite me; what do I choose to eat when no one is watching; what sensations do I feel in my body; what thoughts come to mind and how do they flow with time to let them run as they will; what is silence really like; what do I notice in others; I became aware how little I have taken the opportunity to seek and accept the kindness of others and understand how really deep and wide and enveloping human kindness can be. While I have always valued being dependable, I haven’t understood that depending on others is the other part of this beautiful symmetry that is the human condition; the human order of things. So many, many discoveries in only a little over a month. It has been very special, as inadequate as that word or any other is to describe it.

So tomorrow brings another day in this adventure. My walking companion for a brief time, Brigitte, who was with me when I got hurt, finished the Camino several days ahead of me and went to visit a cousin in southern Spain.  She is coming back to Santiago tomorrow to get an evening flight home. I will meet her bus in the morning and we will enjoy Santiago as we had once envisioned we might had we finished at the same time (she finishing on the Norte and I on the Primativo). It will be nice to see her.

The wifi here in the albergue is iffy and pictures are downloading very slowly so I will hope it is better at my airbnb tomorrow. I will add some photos then.